We here at SA Drift get asked all sorts of question from all over the country about everything drift. So to answer some of those questions we got Professor Clutchplate in to shed some light.
Drifters Shopping List
Howdy Y’all, So we’ve talked about the different types of drift cars and drift engines here and here. Now its time to talk about all the other stuff you’re going to need if you want to drift successfully.
It goes without saying that you are going to have a lot of difficulty drifting without a locked diff, in case you don’t know what a differential is go and check out this video on Youtube at https://youtu.be/F40ZBDAG8-o. In order to drift you are basically going to need to undo that. There are a number of ways to do this.
Pretty self explanatory, the diff gears are welded up preventing the wheels from turning independently.
These are diffs that are made specifically to be locked, pretty expensive and usually have a quick-change gear system.
These are diffs that are open when driving under normal conditions but can be either electronically or mechanically locked under performance conditions
Each method has its pro’s and cons. Welding can break, lockers are hellishly expensive and limited slips don’t always engage, while welding is cheap, lockers offer adjustable gear ratios for track use and LSD’s allow you to drive normally on the road.
Theres a lot of debate as to wether you should have a rollcage fitted to your car.
Being the safety conscience lot here at SA drift we say hell yeah do it if you can.
The benefits of having one far outweigh the negatives. As with diffs there are few different types of rollcages.
Bolt in, half and full cage
As the name implies these are cages that are bolted together and to the car. They are available as a half cage, were there is only a hoop over the seats that connects to the rear seat shock turrent’s. There is no overhead roof halo or door bars, nor an extension that runs to the front.
Weld in, half and full cage
As with the bolt in, the cages look the same except the here cage is permanently welded together and to the body of the car.
Mounting points range from 4 to 8 contact points this means that the cage will be bolted or welded to at least 4 to 8 points on the cars body. The race series that you compete in will dictate in the rulebook how many and where your cage will need to have contact with the shell.
Cages are meant to save your life and limbs in the case of a catastrophic accident and with the speeds being achieved I wouldn’t want to race without one. They also help with the rigidity of car body, which can assist with handling.
Not all seats are created equal!
You will surprised just how much inertia moves your body around when you’re going sideways at 120. Its for this reason that any drifter worth their salt will change out the stock seats to something that provides just a little bit more support.
As with everything we’ve discussed so far there are different types of seats.
These are the most common. Usually steel tube construction covered with foam with extended side bolsters and shoulder support. They provide some support but generally, are meant for street cars.
Race seats are very deep and are usually made of aluminium and/or a carbon fibre / Kevlar mix, they will also have very little padding but will keep you in place no matter the G forces. No treally meant for street cars as you aren’t supposed to spend a lot of time in them.
These are competition FIA spec seats that you will find in all your top race series cars. These seats are called halo seats because of the big padded section surrounding the drivers head. Very deep with plenty of support. Formula D requires Halo seats for obvious reasons.
If you want to know more or have something to add to our drifters shopping list please drop us a mail at firstname.lastname@example.org or keep an eye out for the Prof’s next piece in part 2 with more drift stuff you can add to your shopping list, don’t wanna make this tl;dr.